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  Author    Grannies Great Aunt!  (currently 5,969 views)
Pete Crudgington
Posted on: June 13th, 2017, 17:24:10 Quote Report to Moderator
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Neil

Thanks for the link, quite  build!

Good to know that Endaf has done a mini marcos, he was one of the people I was going to approach.  The other cages out there in recent years have been done by Caged, but they appear to be in some finical difficulty at present.

Pete
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: June 18th, 2017, 18:11:44
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Less progress this weekend.
Under side and engine bay now rollered in black topcoat.

Interestingly the floor was originally black gel coat and resin and about 3 to 4 mm think, the body is all white gel coat and resin and 1.5 to 2mm thick or should that be thin!  Granny by comparison is 8 to 10mm thick in the original body!

Now to build up and attach subframes so its a roller and then off for a roll cage.

Travelling the USA for the next few weeks to no further action until July.

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: July 15th, 2017, 11:26:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Felt that I had better weigh the shell as I have put quite a bit of weight back in having previously cut out a lot.

so quite happy with result of 103.5 kg, this includes bonnet, pedal box and two master cylinders.

Quoted weight of bare shell is 230lbs (104.4kg) so looks like I haven't changed things too much.

Pete
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Colin_Bell
Posted on: July 15th, 2017, 15:13:09 Quote Report to Moderator
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Pete
I appreciate your posts as I've just this morning power washed my Jem shell that's been in a barn for 15 years!
I have already removed the steel plate on one side for the rear subframe mount. Was going to use the remaining original to locate the replacement beam and make a new stainless plate up, glass it in and then ditto for the other side.
I'm curious as you've already ripped yours to bits in the manner I think I may have to.
I'm not too clear on Richard's description of taking the metal rear arches out - I had no idea there was so much metal in there! How did you remove yours and are you just putting in a metal plate for the damper mount? More glassfibre?
Also I was presuming the strength in the sills was in the glassfibre box section so thought I'd leave as is (once I've replace what I removed for the rear beam mount plates). I saw you'd removed inners completely and replaced minus a bit for the roll cage presumably? Is that where you made a box out of plywood and glassed over?
I intend to have a cage made which will link to the rear beam mounts and I thought maybe the damper mounts (but I have to check regs for hillclimbs which I do). Is that what you're up to with the space at the back of the inner sills?
Keep up the good work and posts so I can do what you do!
Cheers
Colin
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: July 15th, 2017, 17:00:22 Quote Report to Moderator
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Colin

Welcome to the challenges ahead!

The rear arches have a complete metal inner arch glassed in, I cut this out by removing the fibre glass covering it on the inside of the car.  Angle grinder and cutting disk with great care and face mask was best way to cut around the edges and then remove it with some large screw drivers and levers!  Just don't bring all the way through!  I just layed 5 or 6 layers of glass back over this having made a wooden mould for where the shocker goes, no steel used!

The sills have a 5/8 thick piece of wood running the length of the door down the middle, this is glassed in and then the box section is glassed on top.  I removed all this as the wood was rotten.  I filled the but under the door with celotex building insulation (wicks) glassed this in then created the shape I needed with celotex and glassed over this.  It's now much more rigid than it was.  I left the back of the sills open so there was space to get to the rear subframe mounts as this has always been a big issue on Granny Smith

Generally you are not allowed to pick up shock absorber mounts with roll cages.

If yours is also a Mk1 it is likely to be similar but not sure about the Mk2 or 3's

Just remember if it was easy everyone would be doing it!

Cheers

Pete
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admin
Posted on: July 18th, 2017, 14:05:27 Quote Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Pete Crudgington, posted July 15th, 2017, 17:00:22 at here
The rear arches have a complete metal inner arch glassed in, I cut this out by removing the fibre glass covering it on the inside of the car.  Angle grinder and cutting disk with great care and face mask was best way to cut around the edges and then remove it with some large screw drivers and levers!  Just don't bring all the way through!  I just layed 5 or 6 layers of glass back over this having made a wooden mould for where the shocker goes, no steel used!



Same problem here. It failed the MoT because of the rusting insert on the left side. The right side was almost as bad. I got the insert out with great difficulty on the inside of the car, not wanting to disturb the fibreglass between the inner and outer skins. The steel insert was loose between two layers of fibreglass. Eventually I managed to get it out after snipping the metal in a few places so it would bend. I then rebuilt the arch in fibreglass as shown. There's a small stainless steel plate just to spread the shock absorber load a bit.



Having now passed the MoT it made sense to do the other side. This time I cut a large piece of the fibreglass out from the inside of the arch i.e. on the outside of the shell. This allowed me to get the insert out more easily. I think I had chopped off the bit around the shock mount first. I then replaced the big bit of fibreglass and laminated it in from above before filling the joint from below. Then I rebuilt the arch as before, except that the second attempt was slightly neater than the first!

Last modified July 19th, 2017, 19:21:21 by admin
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admin
Posted on: July 18th, 2017, 14:57:07
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This is the Mk. 3. Obviously HPM thought better of using the steel arches.
Note improved battery box.


Last modified July 18th, 2017, 14:58:01 by admin
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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:17:42
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Bit more of an update.

Like many owners I am struggling with head room, so dropped the floor 2" on the drivers side, this now gives enough clearance (just!) for a helmet.

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:22:48
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Also made a new rear beam, not happy with the ones you can buy.  The end plates are detachable and attach using the same bolts that hold the beam in place.  I have also added an additional mount where the inner radius arm mount is.  Will attached some photos below

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:23:15
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More beam photos

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:23:49
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and more

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:24:20
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and fitted

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:24:44
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end fitted

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:25:28
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so car in now on all 4 wheels at long last!

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Pete Crudgington
Posted on: October 29th, 2017, 09:25:50
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and another

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